AgResearch
Browse

File(s) not publicly available

The physical and chemical disruption of human hair after bleaching – studies by transmission electron microscopy and redox proteomics

journal contribution
posted on 2023-05-03, 20:43 authored by Anita Grosvenor, Santanu Deb-Choudhury, Paul MiddlewoodPaul Middlewood, Ancy ThomasAncy Thomas, Erin LeeErin Lee, James Vernon, Joy Woods, Cheryl Taylor, Fraser Bell, Stefan ClerensStefan Clerens
OBJECTIVE: To understand the structural and chemical effects of cosmetic peroxide bleaching on human hair. METHODS: Human hair was progressively bleached using alkaline peroxide-persulfate treatment. Proteins lost through leaching were examined using amino acid analysis and mass spectrometric sequencing. Fibre damage was assessed using transmission electron microscopy, amino acid analysis, and redox proteomics. RESULTS: Protein loss through leaching increased with bleaching severity. Leached proteins were not limited to the cuticle, but also included cortical intermediate filaments and matrix keratin-associated proteins. The leached proteins were progressively oxidised as bleaching severity increased. Bleached fibres demonstrated substantial damage to the cuticle layers and to the cortex. Extensive melanin granule degradation was present after the mildest bleach treatment. Protein oxidation in bleached fibres was principally in cortical intermediate filaments – the most abundant hair proteins, and OBJECTIVE: To understand the structural and chemical effects of cosmetic peroxide bleaching on human hair. METHODS: Human hair was progressively bleached using alkaline peroxide–persulphate treatment. Proteins lost through leaching were examined using amino acid analysis and mass spectrometric sequencing. Fibre damage was assessed using transmission electron microscopy, amino acid analysis and redox proteomics. RESULTS: Protein loss through leaching increased with bleaching severity. Leached proteins were not limited to the cuticle, but also included cortical intermediate filaments and matrix keratin-associated proteins. The leached proteins were progressively oxidized as bleaching severity increased. Bleached fibres demonstrated substantial damage to the cuticle layers and to the cortex. Extensive melanin granule degradation was present after the mildest bleach treatment. Protein oxidation in bleached fibres was principally in cortical intermediate filaments – the most abundant hair proteins – and targeted the sulphur-containing amino acids, particularly the conversion of cystine disulphide bonds to cysteic acid. CONCLUSION: Peroxide chemical treatments quickly access the cortex, causing untargeted oxidative damage across the fibre in addition to the desired loss of melanin. Peroxide ingress is likely facilitated by the considerable structural degradation caused to the cuticle layers of hair fibres. The consequences of the peroxide action within the cuticle and cortex are oxidation of the proteins, and subsequent protein loss from the fibre that correlates to bleaching severity.

History

Rights statement

© 2018 Society of Cosmetic Scientists and the Soci et e Franc aise de Cosm etologie

Language

  • English

Does this contain Māori information or data?

  • No

Publisher

Wiley

Journal title

International Journal of Cosmetic Science

ISSN

0142-5463

Citation

Grosvenor, A. J., Deb-Choudhury, S., Middlewood, P. G., Thomas, A., Lee, E., Vernon, J. A., … Clerens, S. (2018). The physical and chemical disruption of human hair after bleaching: studies by transmission electron microscopy and redox proteomics. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 40(6), 536-548. doi:10.1111/ics.12495

Funder

Unilever UK

Contract number

A21344

Job code

167356

Usage metrics

    Exports

    RefWorks
    BibTeX
    Ref. manager
    Endnote
    DataCite
    NLM
    DC