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J Cosmetic Sci 69(5)_323-333 - YSLim et al 011018.pdf (861.39 kB)

Hair shaft formation and mitochondrial bioenergetics: combining biology, chemistry and physics

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posted on 2023-05-03, 10:38 authored by Yi Shan Lim, Duane HarlandDuane Harland, Thomas Dawson
Research into biological manipulation of hair “quality” has ebbed and waned but today is in a resurgence. Hair appearance is regulated by multiple intervention opportunities—adding more hairs; increasing hair “amount” by modulating shaft diameter or shape; or, in principle, by altering shaft physical properties by changing its synthesis. It is likely that improved benefits may be achieved by combining multiple areas—minimizing follicle loss and miniaturization, maximizing shaft production, and treating the existing shaft. A previously overlooked opportunity is follicle metabolism: building “better” hairs. Hair production is energy intensive, and it is known that follicle metabolism influences shaft diameter. Multiphoton microscopy enables metabolic investigation of live, growing, human, hair follicles. This allows definition of multiple “zones” with vastly different metabolism: proliferation—where keratinocytes proliferate and migrate into specialized layers; production—proliferation ceases, and synthesis and patterning begin; construction and elongation—the structural framework is seeded and cells extend to create the nascent fiber; and maturation—gradual hardening and transformation into mature shaft. Recent investigations into the transition from construction to maturation reinforce this as a key developmental threshold, where shaft production transforms from a biologically driven into a biochemically driven process. We now name this “Orwin’s transition.”

History

Rights statement

© 2018 Society of Cosmetic Chemists

Language

  • English

Does this contain Māori information or data?

  • No

Publisher

Society of Cosmetic Chemists

Journal title

Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists

ISSN

0037-9832

Citation

Lim, Y. S., Harland, D. P., & Dawson, T. L. (2018). Hair shaft formation and mitochondrial bioenergetics: combining biology, chemistry and physics. Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists, 69(5), 323–334.

Contract number

A21232

Job code

151802x02

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